Eat, Play, Love

Craig Morrison travels to Bali, the Island of the Gods, where golf has firmly taken root

BALI HANDARA ***1/2

Australians account for many of the visitors to Bali and Australia’s two greatest golfers designed 50 per cent of the courses here. This one, the oldest on the island, Bali Handara, was designed by Peter Thomson, a five time Open champion and by definition one of the world’s greatest links players. Yet Bali Handara couldn’t be further removed from the links game having more in common with jungles than sandy seasides. It is built in a volcanic crater more than 1,000 metres above sea level and the grasses are deep green and lush, the trees numerous and often towering. The mountains are magnificent and the course is special too. It’s perhaps the gentlest of the layouts on the island, but it has class. The stylish par -fives at the end of the outward and inward halves stand out. They promised me birdies but delivered much more ...

The routing is clever. The golfer plays up, down and across in all directions, feeling the wind in its many guises. Warm breezes blow across the entire island and everyone , it seems, flies kites. Here in Bedugul though the winds are noticeably cooler, making it a great altitude escape for those who have been sweltering in the busier tourist traps on the coast. The mornings can be misty, the nights chilly. The on-site accommodation is a jot dated. But the course – though maybe less exciting than others on the island – is timeless. Anyone who can should visit. Bali Handara is a special place.

Bali Handara Kosaido Country Club
Yardage: 7,024 Par: 72
Designed by Peter Thomson
Contact: balihandarakosaido.com

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