Sumptuous Seconds

New and Notable

Several horological houses presented either a totally new collection or a novel complication in an already established range.

Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the 11th member of its top-range, grand complication line, Hybris Mechanica, at the show. Also known as the Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon, the piece is not big on the three-dimensional aspects of the last two Hybris Mechanica models (ie last year’s Gyrotourbillon 3).

Instead this is the Jaeger-LeCoultre’s first ultra-thin grand complication and it comes with an automatic movement, whose peripheral rotor is seen through the dial, a flying tourbillon, and a minute repeater. The watch comes in a nicely proportioned 41mm case with a thickness of 7.9mm.

The classic feel of the watch comes together nicely through the grained silver dial and white gold dauphine hands. A flying tourbillon with flying balance wheel is visible at 6 o’clock, giving a clear, open view of the movement. The watchmaking team had to develop a new balance spring and pare down the number of components to achieve this. White gold was chosen over platinum for the case, mainly for better acoustics for the minute repeater. The Hybris Mechanica 11 is limited to only 75 pieces in 18k white gold.

Parmigiani presented the handsome Metrograph collection, a reasonably priced range that showcases all the great points of the brand, from the focus on design - the signature tear-shaped lugs - and how most of the parts are created in-house. The line comes in 40mm stainless steel cases, with versions in black and white, and options for a black leather strap or steel bracelet. The monochrome theme is given a twist with Superluminova green sub-dials for small seconds, the 30-minute counter and 12-hour counter, together forming a sideways figure 8. The open-worked date window displays odd numbered dates as numerals, and even-numbered dates as dots. Inside the watch is the in-house PF315 automatic chronograph movement, with pushers integrated in the lugs. Overall the watch is a winner in legibility, usefulness and style.