Fearless at Forty

Evan Rast recounts the intriguing events that led to the creation of one of the most influential watches of all time, the Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak, as it celebrates four decades of daring and innovation.

Eight New Watches

The Royal Oak Tourbillon ChronographIn celebration of the Royal Oak's special anniversary, Audemars Piguet has presented eight new versions of the icon. The first is the Extra-Thin Royal Oak, a re-interpretation of Genta's original, with a radiant Petite Tapisserie motif on the special blue dial and the distinctive AP logo at 6 o'clock. There's a tourbillon version of this, the Extra-Thin Royal Oak Tourbillon, which is fitted with the handwound calibre 2924 and comes in a 41mm steel or pink gold case.

It's interesting to note that for the models with the petite and grande tapisserie motifs, Audemars Piguet had to restore a piece of antique machinery that produced the ramolayé pattern on the dial. The machine creates a particular texture as the squares for the motif's layout are cut while simultaneously obtaining a fine grid pattern. The end result must truly be seen to be appreciated.

Among my personal favourites from the collection are the openworked limited editions. The Openworked Extra-Thin Royal Oak, with the automatic calibre 5122, one of the world's thinnest mechanical movements at 3.05mm, comes in anthracite and has an openworked dial that extends right though to its suspended barrel. The parts are graced with traditional finishes, such as stain brushing and hand-drawn file strokes. The Openworked Extra-Thin Royal Oak Tourbillon limited edition comes in a 41mm platinum case, with an open-worked movement, the handwound Calibre 2924.

Like the 1972 model, the latest Royal Oak Chronograph features a subtle interplay of alternating satin-brushed and polished surfaces, as well as the eight white gold hexagonal screws on the octagonal bezel. Water-resistant to 50m, the watch is fitted with the Calibre 2385, a mechanical selfwinding movement driving hour and minute hands, small seconds, a date display and the chronograph functions with a 40-hour power reserve. The watch is available in steel and pink gold.

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