A Classic Grows Up

HK Golfer watch editor Ariel Adams on the  Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Perpetual Calendar, one of the horological highlights of 2010

Audemars Piguet prefers a traditional perpetual calendar layout in its watch dials, which feels particularly appropriate for the tone of this watch. Observation of historic Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar watches reveals a deep traditional use of this layout since the brand made only pocket watches. Interesting though are minor design elements that offer a hint of sleekness to the dial of the watch – but retain stylized decoration the define Audmars Piguet timepiece. You’ll notice that while the dial is a simple flat tone, the recessed subdials have a gorgeous inner ring polish that is an easy to miss, but a highly appreciated design feature once noticed. The thin baton style hour markers are in polished 18k rose gold and complimented to leaf-style polished 18k gold hands. Most of the subsidiary dial hands are crafted to be miniature versions of the main hands.

Those unfamiliar with the perpetual calendar watches will find this watch to indicate the time, date, date of the week, month, leap year, and moon phase indication. Adjusting the calendar setting is done via small inset pushers on the side of the case, and it is highly important to refer to the watch instructions as many perpetual calendar watches have limitations on when its calendar functions can be set.

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