Spoilt for Choice

John Bruce considers the now extraordinary diversity in the single malt market while enjoying a glass or two of Arran's Machrie Moor expression.

However, one is hopefully confronted by a few known truths when writing about single malt whisky. For instance, Bruichladdich is an example of a non-peated Islay malt which, given near neighbours like Lagavulin and Laphroaig would surprise any new aficionado who indulged in a pilgrimage around Islay’s distilleries. However, the diversity that is driving the success of the industry means that the distillery now produces both “Classic” and “Peated” varieties. Neither do they do things by halves with the tasting notes for their Octomore expression being summarised as “A spirit for peatophiles. The most heavily peated single malt in the world but with a gentler side which evolves as time goes by.”

Given my limited duty free transportation back to Hong Kong, I did not purchase any of this well-received malt but it is on the list for my next journey. For my two bottles of excise free malt, I returned to the Arran Malt's distillery at Lochranza and purchased two of their limited edition expressions, Machrie Moor and The Devil’s Punchbowl. Both are named after geographical features of the United Kingdom but they were only two of many limited editions for sale. When I last visited a couple of years ago the distillery was selling a far more limited catalogue, probably as befitted a venture only recently re-opened. It took me a considerable time to make my choice and it was this drawn out process that lead to my musing on ill-made Scottish choices.

So far, I am confident that I have evaded Charliesque errors as the Machrie Moor has been opened, sampled at some length and thoroughly enjoyed. In fact it is akin to the Octomore in that the distillery has produced an over-peat version. This characteristic, however, does not diminish the whisky and it should be taken with water and patience. Fruity to begin, smoky all the way through and sweet, long and peat laden in its finish, this is a delight.

All of my misgivings over the ever-diversifying product range have been, perhaps only temporarily, put on hold by this Machrie Moor but my mind is turning to another choice. Mr Salmond has one for us that might require a good few wee drams whilst we Scots try to get a big one right.

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