The Sultanate of Swing

Brunei might not be everyone’s first choice for a trip with clubs in tow. But if you’re looking for laid-back experience on first-rate courses, this tiny nation, a short flight from Hong Kong, certainly merits attention

Expansive bunkering awaits at the Empire

While that theory might be debatable, there’s no disputing the appeal of a largely uncharted golfing frontier that combines stunning scenery and flawless hospitality with cannily designed courses that never fail to provide an enjoyable experience. Even for those unable to count on simian assistance.

South East Asia has long been a favoured destination for discerning and budget-conscious golfers. Thailand and peninsular Malaysia are both overflowing with top-quality tracks and Cambodia and Vietnam are also seeing increasing amounts of traffic. Brunei’s courses, however, still lie tantalizingly off the beaten track.

Wedged between the Malaysian states of Sabah and Sarawak on Borneo, the third largest island in the world, Brunei’s popular image is one of cash-rich monarchs, glittering gold-domed mosques, strict prohibition of alcohol sales and … well, very little else. More learned travellers would perhaps refer to the tiny state’s hefty chunk of virgin rainforest. Golf, however, doesn’t normally get a look in. When I told friends I was visiting, their initial envy was replaced by incredulity when I mentioned that I was there to play a round. “Who goes to Brunei to play golf?” was the general consensus. I had to admit that I didn’t know.

After playing four courses in the Sultanate, I not only now know the answer to that question - Koreans, lots of them. I can also attest to the sheer conviviality of the experience.

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